First Permit Ever!

Loaded and ready for the road.

It was one of the saddest trip departures that I have ever made. Linda kissed me goodbye, gave me a huge hug and with tears in her eyes walked away. The decision for her to stay home was a hard one and we both knew that it was best for Linda's folks and her peace of mind.

We were greeted by these goats when we arrived at Corn Creek.

I put the truck in gear and slowly rolled away from the house, our cataraft in tow, loaded for the Main Salmon. After about 25 years of applying for a coveted river permit, my name had been pulled. The trip was meant to introduce our friends, the Edwardses, to multi-day river running, while providing a celebration of Linda's birthday on July 24th. We had been preparing and looking forward to this day since the middle of February. I drove off alone and a bit sad.

My first-night accommodations.

At 6:00 AM I picked up Beth Hanggeli and we followed I-90 east to Missoula, MT, turned south, hitting Lolo and Hamilton, Montana. At North Fork, MT we took a right and drove the dusty winding road through Shoup, Idaho to the river launch site at Corn Creek on the Main Salmon River.

As we drove into the campground we were greeted by a group of wild goats feeding by the side of the road. Our river party consisted of five boats and eleven river runners. Within an hour we had all rendezvoused in the campground and were busy doing the final preparations and then launching our boats.

Ryan and Zane making final adjustments to their raft.

On the permit were listed the names of the eleven folks that made up our group members: John and Loretta Sutherland; the Edwardses, Holly, Ryan Anika and Zane; Scott Klaue; Kellee Johnson; Beth Hanggeli; John Karpenko; and the permit holder Deano Bennett. The group was a mix of seasoned rafters and novices; outdoor enthusiasts and weekend adventurers all with the same focus, get on the river, relax and enjoy the beauty of this wild and scenic corridor.

Our boats rigged and ready!

We met with the forest service workers and let them know that our group was present and ready. They inspected our required gear and gave us the go-ahead allowing us to request our nightly beach stops for camping. Once our request list was posted we went to our campsites and readied for dinner and bed. My chosen bed site was located on the boat trailer giving me a great panorama of the campground, a very level and secure place to sleep.

The next morning we had a wonderful breakfast prepared by Scott and Kellee, consisting of muffin, egg and bacon sandwiches and coffee. A great way to start the trip.

Scott discussing reserved beach choices with a crew from Oregon.

At 9:00 AM we met with all the private boat groups and made the final selections for each nights camping while on the river. One group,  made up of boaters from Oregon, had selected almost the exact same beaches that we had listed the night before. Scott did the negotiations and he was able to talk them into exchanging two of our beaches for a super nice beach and then proceeded to get us a couple other beaches that worked out just fine. In the end, we had what we thought were much better beaches than the other group so we were all happy.

This tells it all if you know the river.

Our group launched at about 10:00 AM, just after the forest service lady gave us the speech on keeping the river corridor clean. Our first day was a short one of ten miles which took us to Upper Lantz Bar, a nice beach with a good swimming hole.

A group launches just prior to our group.

On the way downriver to the Lantz Bar campsite, we stopped at the site of the Legend Creek Pictographs and hiked up to the rock face that held this wonderful history. A short way downriver, we viewed the Devil's Toe Pictographs. Our last stop before we hit camp at Big Squaw Creek was at the beach named Motor. There on the sand up above the high water line sits an engine block from a jet boat that crashed and sunk many years ago. It’s cool to see it sitting there and reminds us that no matter how strong your engine is, the river will sooner or later win if you don’t take care and show your respect.

We had a great evening on our first beach. The Sutherland’s fixed a wonderful dinner of grilled salmon. We ate so much and were so tired from all the prior preparations that we went to bed really early.

Hiking up to the Legend Creek Pictographs.

The next day we set off on another day of downriver exploration. The first big rapid was Black Creek and we all chose the run on the left side of the river. Everyone had great runs so we celebrated with a little soak in the hot soothing waters of Barth Hot Springs.

As we readied to leave the hot pool, I stepped over the rock wall and slipped, falling over the edge. I was able to stop myself before I tumbled down the slick rocks of the hot pool discharge, but I did need assistance to pull myself back upright. It was a close call but I survived with only one scrape on my lower leg.

I would tell you what they say but it is a long story.

We stopped for lunch at a nice small beach and my bad luck continued. As I ate a meat stick, a yellowjacket swooped in and lit on my lip. Instantly, I felt his sting and brushed him away. The lip immediately began to swell and boy, it hurt like hell. I took some Benadryl, but for the rest of the day, I had shooting pain down into my jaw. For the next two days, I had a bit of a problem drinking without drooling. Everyone enjoyed commenting about my fat lip. It wasn’t a huge hardship; the annoyance was gone in a couple of days.

Beautiful wild and scenic Main Salmon.

We stayed at Big Squaw Beach that night. It was my night to fix dinner, so I pulled out one of our standard crowd-pleasers, fajitas! Everyone seemed to enjoy the meal and once all the kitchen work was finished everyone went to bed early.
The next day was our big rapid day. We faced Big Mallard first. Everyone except myself had great runs. My boat was very light in the front and the lateral wave just before the gap between the rocks, pushed me too far to the left and I smacked the left rock. I did the same thing two years ago when we ran the Main Salmon. I guess Big Mallard has my number.

John and Loretta Sutherland survive another rapid!

The pictographs at Devils Toe.

Elkhorn Rapid was the next big run and we all had pretty good runs through it. Our next assigned beach was Hancock Beach and when we arrived the weather changed and we had a nice big rain shower. All the tents were set up before the big stuff came down, so we spent a lot of the evening under umbrellas. John K. and Beth grilled up some steaks and potatoes, a huge treat!

One of the funnier moments of the trip came during this stop when Ryan carefully waded into the water to fill a pail for wash water and ended up slipping and falling completely into the river. It was hilarious! He fell in slow motion and everyone was watching at that moment. I laughed so hard I had tears in my eyes.

This was the only night that I slept in my tent the entire trip.

In the morning we ate breakfast and moved on down the river reaching our next camp at Jim Moore without incident. Ryan and Holly prepared spaghetti for dinner and our evening was filled with talk of hunting and past adventures. By this time we were a well-oiled setup and tear-down river machine. It took shorter times to set up camp and tear them down in the AM.

Lunch break after the pictograph viewing.

We floated into Mackay Bar the next day. Everyone bought ice cream, shirts, and books from the little store by the museum. We hiked around the place discovering the history that Buckskin Billy created. Old Billy was quite the guy. The museum showed a video of him along with a great collection of the odd things he created. Once we finished our treats we pushed off and floated past the spot where the South Fork of the Salmon joins the Main Salmon.

Landing on Haynie Bar on the 24th of July was a bit of a heart breaker for me. Linda's birthday and she was not here. We celebrated with a delicious meal prepared by Kellee. She whipped up an enchilada Dutch oven dinner fit for a king and topped it off with warm chocolate chip cake.

This was set to be a theme night, but with Linda gone the importance of the event was low. I dressed as a dog, Kellee was Mary Anne from Gilligan's Island, Scott was the Skipper, and the Edwards dressed in their Seahawks event wear. It was fun, but very low key.

Morning deer sighting!

Our next night's camp was one that was not designated so we pushed on until Slide Beach where we set up a great camp. Ryan and Holly prepared a meal of grilled pork loin with all the fixings. We ate our fill and faded off to bed.

The final day's float took us down the river and out of the permit required area. We passed the Carey Creek boat ramp and didn’t give the huge crowds of commercial and private float groups packing up a second glance.

Our last night was spent on Chamberland Gulch Beach. I made a dinner of pesto, chicken and three-cheese tortellini and everyone got their fill. We went to bed and before long were serenaded by a chorus of coyotes howling at the moon. It was a sweet end to a great eight-day float trip.

Walked right up to me and then walked into the river.

In the morning we did our final pack up and were at the Spring Bar takeout by 10:30 am. The loading went well, except that Sutherlands had to change a flat tire on their trailer. Everyone gathered and said their goodbyes. The Edwardses rode with me and we drove quickly to Grangeville where we had the best double bacon cheeseburgers in the world!

Anika and her toad prince!

Relaxing in the hot water at Barth Hot Springs.

Saw more eagles on this trip than any trip prior. Very cool!

Yup, a bit of a fat lip I would say!

Bar is open!

Evening around the campfire!

Buckskin Billy's homestead at Mackay Bar.

Great view from the old dwelling.

Taking a break and having some icecream.

Zane and Anika at Buckskin's place.

Max from the movie 'Secret Lives of Animals."

The Captain from "Gilligan's Island."

Seahawks!!!

Mary Anne and the Captain.

This dogs bark is way worse than his bite.

Talking hunting and other outdoor stuff.

Put my camera down, Ryan.

John K., Scott, and John S.

Loretta, Beth, Kellee, Holly, and Anika.

Holly and John K.

11 Years, Main Salmon Long Time No See!

The week prior to the day we left for our trip was spent preparing food and packing. Our food night was the night everyone arrived at the Corn Creek put-in, so we spent quite a bit of time figuring out the meal and how we would serve it. We were trying to provide a special meal but we needed to make sure it was easy and could be done without a great deal of equipment. Our answer was to put together a trunk of kitchen stuff that we would leave in the truck once we served the dinner and breakfast.

Our meals of choice were a dinner of smoked pulled pork sandwiches with our Mexican pasta salad, and then breakfast would consist of Marcy’s breakfast burritos and fruit. All meals were prepared ahead and frozen so we just had to heat and serve.

Moving down the Salmon.

We left Post Falls at 6:10 am and drove to Kellogg, ID where we picked up John Karpenko. John rode over and back with us but would row John Sutherland down the river. John broke his wrist falling off a ladder earlier in the month and his doctor told him he couldn’t row his boat. The drive took us east to Missoula, Montana where we pointed south and followed Highway 93 down through Lolo and Darby. Just past Hamilton, we could see the black mountains where a forest fire burned. There were still patches of smoke rising into the air; we hoped that we wouldn’t see anything like that as we moved on down the Salmon.

We left Montana and drove back into Idaho to North Fork. At this point we turned right, heading down the Salmon River through Shoup. The road was rough and slow going in places, but following the Salmon River gave us a lot to look at and helped build our excitement toward our trip.   Our drive ended at the Corn Creek launch site where our rafting adventure began.

The Main Salmon section requires a permit and you apply for the lottery in January.  You apply for a specific launch date and pay a fee and then wait. The number of applicants for river permits is mind boggling; if you get one you are very lucky. I have never gotten a permit and I have been applying for 15 years or more.

Loretta Sutherland was our permit holder, thus she was the esteemed trip leader (ETL). We felt privileged to be invited and had been looking forward to and planning for this trip since about March.

John K. and Jim C. get their morning coffee fix. 

Corn Creek was bustling with boaters getting their gear together and into the water. They have a launch lane reserved for boaters who trailer their boats and can back in, launch and get out of the way. We have become one of the launch-and-go folks, so it took us just a few minutes to get the cat (cataraft) off the trailer and moved up stream to an area just below our camp site.

John Karpenko took the boat to its overnight spot and I drove the truck up and parked it in the camp site. We met John Sutherland and Mark Lisk as they were loading up to drive back up the road to Salmon, Idaho. When John arrived and got out of his truck, he heard a hisssss from his truck tire. He had driven over a piece of metal and it had punctured his tire. He wanted to change the tire so the shuttle driver didn’t have to deal with it. So he and Mark were on their way into the nearest town to get it fixed. The shuttling of the rigs from Corn Creek involved heading back up through North Fork, then to Lolo, Montana where they then turned west and headed up over Lolo Pass following the Lochsa and Clearwater Rivers, then to I-95 where they headed south through Grangeville and Riggins, ending at Spring Bar. It’s a long shuttle and you want your shuttle driver to have everything needed, especially a spare tire.

Our campsite at Maxwell Bar.

We set up the kitchen after the boys left and started greeting everyone as they arrived for the start of our trip.

John and Loretta Sutherland had driven over to North Fork the previous day. Their trip was quite the adventure. They had hit rain and hail and then were smacked by high winds during the night. I guess they could probably write an entire blog post about the trip and their adventures. They were the first to arrive at Corn Creek.

Mark & Jerri Lisk pulled into the put-in site not long after the Sutherlands. They had come from Southeastern Oregon. I didn’t hear that they had any problems on their drive. Jim and Claire Clift were also on the ramp when we arrived. They were sorting gear and waiting for Mike Beckwith to bring their frame. Mike Wassmuth and Lori Mader had left Post Falls at about 8:00 AM, so they had made good time and arrived next. Mike and Caroline Beckwith finally showed up. The group was all accounted for though we were still waiting for John and Mark to return from Salmon with the repaired spare tire.

While the boys were on the road to Salmon, John K. had an assignment. John S. had backed up and smashed his right tail light on the trailer. John K. was asked to replace the old light setup with a new one John S. had bought before he left Salmon on their first visit there. John K. had to do a bit of a MacGyver, but after about an hour he fixed the trailer light.

We started serving dinner and within a few minutes, John and Mark arrived… and so did the bees. Caroline B. and Linda were the first two to get stung. We had thought this might be a possible problem so the group had brought five bee catchers. Throughout the rest of the trip, we would set up the kitchen, followed by the bee catchers. Almost everyone got stung once; I was lucky and avoided contact. The first meal went smoothly and everyone got their fill.

Night came and our river team members had claimed either a spot in the campground or near the water. Once the meal was cleaned up we all hit the sack. 

Morning came very quickly and Linda and I fixed breakfast as everyone shook the sleep from their eyes. We stuffed everything away and loaded our kitchen back into the truck. Our plan dealing with the meal gear and all worked out really nice for everyone and everything fit into the back seat of the truck. As Linda tucked and tidied our boat I moved the truck up onto the road to wait for the shuttle drivers to arrive.

As we packed, the Forest Service Ranger visited and checked our group for the mandatory equipment that we needed to take with us. He asked us a few questions and then had Loretta, our trip leader, accompany him to pick up the boat permit tags for our group.  They reconfirmed our assigned camp sites and then he gave us the go ahead. It was 11:30 AM and we were off!

The tree that fell in the woods.

Most everyone had a river map to follow where the camps and rapids are marked by miles and descriptions of the areas.  Corn Creek is 46.4 (though some maps start with Corn Creek as mile 0) river miles down from North Fork Town Site and so we mark our mileage from there. Our first camp was at Blackadar, located at mile 63.4. The beach was on river left and was a nice spacious sand bar with trees providing late afternoon shade. We hit the beach, set the kitchen site up and everyone found flat spots for their tents or cots.

The tree came very close to our cots!

“When a tree falls in the woods and no one is around, does it make a sound?”  Shit yes, it does! We had eaten dinner and everyone was milling around getting set for bed. We heard a single crack. No one could figure out what it was or where it came from. We all thought someone in the group had broken a branch, but no one had. The dusk slipped into dark and suddenly we heard a larger CRACK and a dead pine tree shuttered. The tree was just off the sand to the upper left of the beach and leaning toward the water. Everyone had just enough time to scatter, the tree let go with a huge crash and it hit the sand. (The tree was estimated to be about 110 feet tall.) A dust cloud rose from the sand and small broken shards of tree limbs rained out and down on us. When the dust cleared the top of the tree lay within mere inches from the kitchen table. The upper trunk sunk in the sand not far from our hor d’oeuvres roll-a-table and the entire mess smashed five yards from Linda and my cots! Confirming again that yes, it made a sound!

Scouting Black Creek rapid.

Needless to say, our group didn’t sleep as soundly as they might have, and for the rest of the trip, camp sites were picked with an eye on the dead trees that lined the sand beaches.

Another beautiful morning found us moving down the river to our camp site at Allison Ranch, mile 80 on the map. We ran several good rapids and stopped to scout the run at Black Creek rapid.  It is a relatively new rapid and very deserving of a scout.  We picked our line and studied the entry. To me scouting is an evil necessity. I hate the anticipation that it creates and would rather get it over with, but seeing and knowing is very much needed, and this was one of those cases.

Another group making their run through the rapid.

Back in the boats we lined up for the run. Mike Wassmuth was first since he is still guiding on that river and knows all the runs. Loretta was next. She was running Mike Beckwith’s small cat and was relatively new to rowing that river. Next, the Lisks went, followed then by Linda and me.  By the time I got into the slot and lined up to push into the line I was pumped up!  Everything went well until I made the push around a rock and then swing around to follow the flow past the wall. I pushed too hard and we hit the wall and bounced off it. Not as clean as I wanted, but heck we made it through top side up!  The rest of the group made it through and we were off down the river.

We stopped at Barth Hot Springs and took a bit of a dip in the hot pool. The climb up was steep but well worth it!

Barth Hot Springs

The beach at Allison Ranch beach was in the shade early and we all relaxed from the day’s push.  We were visited by deer on this evening. John Karpenko went for a little hike and when he returned was challenged by a little buck. It snorted and lowered its head, but then gave way to John who just walked on by. Each night we had wonderful meals, and each kitchen crew fed us way too much food. I’ll list the meals and camps at the end so that we can keep track for future trip planning. Right now all I can say is wow, every meal was a gourmet endeavor.

Groundhog, mile 89.4, was our next campsite. The group stopped at Yellow Pine Bar where we met Greg Metz and Sue Anderson, caretakers of the Yellow Pine Bar property. Mike brought them a bottle of wine and they showed us around the place. What a beautiful homestead! We loved the many little artistic touches they had added to the grounds. Greg and Sue were in an energy conservation mode as their diesel generator was not working and water was getting low. They seemed to be taking it in stride and were only mildly concerned at this time. We stayed about an hour and enjoyed the history and beauty of the place greatly.

Sue greets us at Yellow Pine Bar.

Next, we had to run Big Mallard Rapids (83.4), Elkhorn Rapids (86.7) and several more.  I had the same thing happen to me on Big Mallard as happened on Black Creek. The adrenaline of the run caused me to push too hard in a critical spot in the run and it sent me into the wall on the left. I scrapped along and the strap holding the spare oar broke causing the oar to dip into the water. When it came up the handle was broken and so we had to re-strap it to the boat hoping we didn’t need a spare the rest of the trip.

After getting past Big Mallard and Elkhorn we visited the Campbell’s Ferry Ranch and took a tour of the old homestead. It is now a conservation site and they are working to restore the property to its origins of the past. The history of the place is definitely something that needs to be preserved and we enjoyed the stop immensely.

The beach at Groundhog was long and steep with lots of room on the bench up at the top. Our kitchen was on the flat spot that was at the upriver end near the water.  Linda and I set up a tent at this beach, instead of using our cots. The nights were very cool and we wanted to try a tent to see if we slept warmer.  Our experiment was a success; we were quite a bit warmer and so used the tent the rest of the trip.

Walking back to our boats after our visit.

Maxwell Bar Campsite (119.2 miles) would be our camp for the next evening. After camp was set, we gathered at the water’s edge where Mike W. set up a Frisbee toss game and explained the rules. We had to toss the disk and knock a beer can off the top of a pole stuck in the sand. If you knocked it off by hitting the pole you got 1 point. 2 points were awarded if you hit the can, but if the other team’s player caught the can before it hit the water, then you got no points and the other team got 1. We had some great games and the action was fierce. Clouds covered the sun and the wind picked up so it became a bit chilly. We quit the water game and folks played a round of bocce ball.

Campbell’s Ferry Ranch

The final night’s camp was a really nice spot. It was off our maps and below the usual takeout ramps. They called it Howard’s Ranch. This beach was very nice, no bees or very few, nice views and the only drawback was that it was across the river from the road out to Riggins.

Beckwiths provided a great meal and everyone enjoyed a nice sunset. We all woke the next morning and began the final job of packing our boats. There was about three miles to the take-out and all went well. Our take-out was quick and we helped the others get their boats loaded for the trip home.

There were so many more experiences, but it’s difficult to write about all of them. I picked some of the ones that really resonated with me. I also tried to be specific about camps, mileage, etc in order to facilitate any possible upcoming trips. Any mistakes are my own and I apologize to the group in advance.

Our last trip on the Main Salmon was about 11 years ago. Everything has changed; new rapids, forest fire burns, beaches, etc. We all have changed. The folks on this trip are wonderful people. It was nice to get to know the Lisks, to laugh at Mark’s hilarious stories and see Jerri’s constant smile and positive attitude.  Getting to know Lori with Mike W. was a treat. She was such a fun addition to the group and it was nice to see Mike so happy when she was near. Mike W. is a constant friend and his guidance on this trip was so appreciated. I know Linda was more at ease knowing Mike was leading us through the whitewater. Thanks, Mike!

What can you say about the Beckwiths and Clifts? We enjoyed their river tails and re-establishing our friendships. It had been way too long since our last river together; we need to do more. We’ll definitely try to visit them on one of our travels.

John K. kept the coffee coming and kept John S. afloat. Both jobs well done! It was nice talking with him a bit more in the truck on our travels to and from.

John and Loretta did a fantastic job of putting the trip together. We were so thankful to be included and have the opportunity to get on this beautiful wild river. Loretta was the champion trip leader and not a bad boatwoman either!

Linda, Mike and Lori on the Frances Zaunmiller Pack Bridge.

Maybe we will be able to get on the water as a group again; I certainly hope so! Thanks to everyone. You made this trip a wonderful adventure! You all are invited to visit us in Mexico whenever the travel bug hits you. We’d love to see you.

Lori and Caroline enjoying camp.

Jerri looking contemplative...

We visited Buckskin Bills and had ice cream.

The beach at Five Mile Bar.

Beckwith looking for his next soap box.

Running the South Fork of the Salmon River.

Mike and Lori tackle the South Fork.

Sitting at the mouth of the South Fork of the Salmon River.

Frisbee fun and games.

SCORE!

Maxwell Bar looking down river.

Meals:

Put-in Night – Bennetts – Smoked Pulled Pork with Mexican Pasta Salad

First Night – Wassmuth/Mader – Kung Pow Chicken, orange chicken, egg rolls and rice

Second Night – Sutherlunds – Salmon, rice, cole slaw

Third Night - Lisks – Barbecue Tri-tip, quinoa

Fourth Night – Karpenko – Elk pesto pasta, bread, salad

Fifth Night – Clifts – Fajitas and Tamales

Sixth Night – Beckwiths – Chicken PestoTortellini, 3-bean salad