Our time of winter living down in Melaque is growing short. The owner of the house we have rented for the past three months returned and the four housemates have become vagabonds for the final two weeks in the warmth. In one big move, we borrowed the Frog, Larry’s truck, and relocated to Las Palmas as our last home.
Grant and Jacquie have rented Hal and Gretchen’s casita and Linda and I are in the Pescado bungalow, formerly occupied and owned by Gary and Grace. We will stay one night and then we are off on our final Mexico exploration.
Looking down at Cihuatlán,
Rio Marabasco, and Aeropuerto.
Our group tour provided through a local company called Mex ECO, would take us to visit the cities of Puebla and Taxco. We have traveled with this group three times before so we know what we to expect. We are eager to travel but tired from our short move to Las Palmas. We were all hoping for a good night’s rest, but, this is Mexico and they like to party here. The very loud music lasted until about 5 AM, we all were getting up at 6 AM. So much for a fresh restful start to our adventure!
Farmlands between Manzanillo and Mexico City.
Somewhere in Mexico City.
We had a taxi pick the four of us up and take us to our rendezvous spot at Mex ECO’s office. At that time we loaded into rental vehicles and were taken to the Manzanillo Airport where we loaded onto an Aero Mexico jet for an hour flight to Mexico City. Everything went very smoothly considering the number of people traveling together, twelve from Melaque, two from Barra, and six from Manzanillo. This group met up with a second group made up of six people from Puerta Vallarta and finally two from Guadalajara.
The Manzanillo/Melaque group gathered at the bus just outside the terminal and waited for the second flight to arrive. The timing of this arrival was the crux part of our day. A late flight could throw the entire schedule off. We waited!
The tour company, Mex ECO, is co-owned by a very nice young fellow named Dan Patman. He is from Great Britain but is now a permanent resident of Mexico and shares ownership duties with a young lady named Ruth. Dan was the Mex ECO representative on this trip as he has been on all the trips we have taken with them.
Smaller pyramids and temple bases @ Cacaxtla.
Dan spent the next hour on the phone keeping track of the plane and the final members of our tour. When they finally arrived, he introduced our tour guide Ofilia, and our bus driver, Daniel, and we launched into the traffic of Mexico City.
Guards at the gate of Cacaxtla, we are locked out.
Our first stop of this tour was scheduled as a tour of the well-preserved murals at the Cacaxtla archaeological site. These are said to be the best-preserved examples of murals painted on stone walls by the Olmec-Xicalanca culture. We were excited to get a chance to see this area. Dan was calling his hired tour guide to make sure we could get in the gates before they closed. It was very nip and tuck. Traffic was heavy, we were behind schedule.
The bus pulled into the parking lot at the historic site and we unloaded quickly. Dan’s guide met us and hurried us across the road and into the park through the front gates. It looked like we had made it before the gates were locked! As we walked down towards the pyramid mounds we looked back and saw that the public gates were closed and locked. Wow! That was cutting it close.
A disappointed and tired group.
Our site guide started his speech telling us about the area and pointing out the numerous pyramid mounds that sat around the site not yet excavated. He explained that in Mexico there are thousands of sites that have been left covered by soil for the protection of the history. The area excavated here is just a fragment of what could be uncovered. As we approached the gate leading to the 25-meter-high Gran Basamento where the murals are displayed, two guards closed the gates and refused to allow us into the site. They said we were too late and the area was closed.
Artifact at Cacaxtla, but I couldn't read the explanation.
At first, Dan and the area guide thought they were kidding us or were expecting a “mordita”, a money payment. As the conversation continued we could tell that they were holding their ground and were refusing us entrance. The guide and Dan knew that the entire site was to remain open to the people of Mexico and all who visit while the sun was up. This was according to the Constitution of Mexico. Dan brought this fact up, but they refused. Words were exchanged and finally, we retreated about fifty yards away from the gate where our site guide explained what we would have seen had we been allowed to go through the gates.
We walked back to the bus, disappointed and a bit mad. Our next bus leg would take us into Puebla to the Hotel San Leonardo where we would spend the next three nights. This part of our travels was to take us about 45 minutes. We, however, failed to take into account the many Carnaval parades that were happening. Our 45-minute trip extended to over 2 hours. We were more than ready to be done with this travel day.
San Gabriel monastery at the top of Choula.
Monday morning we filed into our mighty steel steed and drove through the city of Puebla to the Great Pyramid of Cholula! From many miles away we could see the church set on the top of the pyramid. What an amazing site!
We filed out of the bus and wandered about the lower grounds, taking pictures and looking at the wonder of this place. As we neared the new museum, it became apparent that something was a bit wrong. The new museum was closed on Mondays!
There is a bit of an explanation for this mistake. This Mex ECO tour was first scheduled to be started one day later, but they changed the travel dates and pushed the tour back a day. Rumors spread about why the change, but nothing could be substantiated. Because of this change we were visiting the museum one day earlier in the week - Monday. The venue was closed that day, but Mex ECO was not aware of this weekly closure. So they went to plan B.
We visited the old little museum.
Once we looked around that building we walked to the entrance to the pyramid tunnels and entered the base of Choula. The pyramid stands180 feet above the surrounding landscape and measures 1,480 by 1,480 feet square. We walked through these tunnels for about a half mile to enter the archeological site. There were many off-shoot tunnels which were blocked from travel and used by the archeologists. It was a very neat walk if a bit claustrophobic.
The artwork on the grounds below
the Great Pyramid of Cholula.
After exiting the tunnels we walked around the site looking at the unearthed rock structures, steps and alters. It gave you a good look at what the Olmec-Xicalanca culture created. It made me wonder why the areas were the way they were and how they were used when the place was inhabited.
Gathering back on the bus everyone was talking about how amazing this site was and we also wondered what we had missed in the new museum. By this time we were becoming more acquainted with our traveling companions. Everyone was getting along fantastically. It is always fun to get to know everyone on these tours.
Mockup display showing the Great Pyramid.
Mural, like the ones we couldn't see the day before.
Great Pyramid tunnel entrance.
We were able to walk through
the Great Pyramid via tunnels.
The tunnels were about a half mile long.
Excavated area around the Great Pyramid.
One of the alters on the grounds.
Workers keeping the site cleared of vegetation.
Santa Maria Tonantzintla looks normal outside.
La Compania Tempo del Espiritu Santo from our
room at the Hotel Palacio San Leonardo.
Back on the road, we drove to our first church that we would tour on this trip, Santa Maria Tonantzintla. This was one of 7000 churches in the Puebla area and it also was an excellent example of baroque indigenous or baroque novohispano style. Unfortunately, we could not take photos of the interior of this church. Strike three for the photographers. To visualize the interior of this church I would suggest dropping a bunch of acid and turn your baroque mind loose. This is a pretty amazing sight and only pictures can give you the true essence of what was created. I inserted a short travel video that was created to attract visitors at the bottom of this post. Please scroll down and take a look.
We had a wonderful hotel in Puebla. It was clean and quiet; our room looked out over a labyrinth of stairs, passages, roofs, and two beautiful old churches. Each morning and evening that we were there I would gaze out over the city and imagine how the past and present all make up the Puebla of today.
We walked a lot while we were not bus touring. Our free time was spent sightseeing, shopping, and hunting for food. One of our tour events was a visit to the Fabrica De Talavera Armando and the Museum Armando Talavera Poblana where we were educated about the art of creating the Talavera pottery. They provided us a demonstration of the entire Talavera creation process, showed us through the museum, and then finally let us purchase some beautiful pieces.
At lunch, on our second day, an auspicious happening transpired. As we sat down for lunch, a truck backed into sight on the street and opened its back doors. A full array of speakers was housed in this hold and they began to broadcast music. Suddenly from all around our restaurant seats, dancers started to gather. They were dressed in the most beautiful costumes with massive feathered headdresses and masks. It was amazing. A bit of confusion and flutter occurred and then dancers filled the street and more music blared. I took a ton of pictures and even more video of this event. The dancers were there to celebrate the Festival Huehues. This festival is part of the overall Carnaval which takes place before Lent. These Huehues dancers gather and each type of costume is representative of their barrio and they are awarded feathers each time they performed.
Talavera pottery, we purchased one dish and a plate.
To us it was spontaneous magic; we were in the right place at the right time. By the way, we had a wonderful lunch. Linda discovered mole for the first time and is hooked.
Each day and night in Puebla was packed with great food and wonderful people-watching. Everything about the place was amazing and we had a wonderful time. Our adventure continued as we traveled on to the unique and beautiful city of Taxco. I hope you enjoy the photos and the videos I have created. (Remember, clicking on the photos enlarges them for more detail.)
We visited a pottery factory.
This shows the five stages of firing
needed to make Talavera pottery.
Throwing a pot.
Painting a pitcher.
Painting a lid.
Spending more money!
Photo of a street market.
A balloon vendor as dusk.
Inside a cool old library.
Library floor has worn down by ages of use.
The department at the highest, hardest to get to point
in the library.
We took an open tour bus. The wires touched the top.
If you stood up, goodbye!
Love locks attached to a fence overlooking the city.
This lady pushed Grant out of his seat on the tour.
Many buildings had plants growing from their walls.
Shopping again.
Huehues dancers gathering before their performance.
The lady in red was this groups queen bee.
Our lunch, interrupted by the dance performance.
The second dance group performed in these costumes.
Linda waited with me as we sat in the Primera Plus bus terminal. In my pocket was my 375 peso ticket for seat number four on the 10:30 AM bus to Puerto Vallarta. I hoped that my seat would provide me a chance to watch the countryside go by without any annoying distractions. Our bus pulled in and I loaded my small suitcase into the luggage hold. Linda gave me a hug and a kiss, told me to be assertive and friendly and I climbed into my seat.
John picked me up and we dinghied out to Mangata.
During the past few days, Linda had given me a few Spanish lessons hoping to improve my confidence and improve my chances of getting on the bus, off at the PV stop and into a taxi to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. She always worries about my timid nature and hopes I can survive with my very limited language skills.
The bus filled and it slid out into traffic, northwest on México 200. The drive was 143 miles to the central bus station and then I would get a taxi on to La Cruz, another 13 miles around Bahía de Banderas. In La Cruz, I would meet John Karpenko and we would board Mangata, his 37 foot Hunter Legend sailboat.
Dinner in La Cruz with Captin Karpenko.
During the four hour ride, I sat next to a French Canadian who really didn’t want anything to do with me. I tried to chat when we first climbed into our seats, but he quickly turned to his traveling buddies and started speaking French and basically ignored me. Even when he turned forward he showed a lack of interest by singing little French songs to himself. I didn’t push it and settled in watching the world go by.
Day sailing on the Bay of Banderas.
We reached the final bus stop and I clambered out and grabbed my suitcase. Having been to this terminal before I briskly walked out and immediately caught a taxi. I tossed my gear in the back seat and climbed in next to the driver. My driver was a nice fellow who kind of spoke English. He had been to Yakama, Washington and worked there for a year so he was aware of the area I had come from. He was a real talker and wanted to talk politics, family, and many other topics. I nodded my head and listened, understanding about half of what he said. We arrived in La Cruz, found the marina and parted ways. He was happy with the tip and I was happy to relax after discussing a bazillion topics.
The sunrise through the marine layer as we cross Banderas Bay.
John was in a weather seminar, learning what to expect for the next week or two. I found the meeting room, talked my way inside and sat down to wait. Forty-five minutes later, John was finished and we greeted each other and walked to the dingy dock. I loaded my two bags into the boat and we made our way out to Mangata at her anchorage. I stowed my gear as we chatted and exchanged news from Melaque and home.
We turn the corner around Cabo Corrientes and are greeted by a pod of four whales.
Once I was settled we untied the little tender and chugged into the dinghy dock. We walked into town and grabbed dinner and bought some food items for our trip. I was a bit worn out from my bus ride so we didn’t stay long once we ate.
We got up the next day and readied the boat to do some day sailing. The weather report said that the wind would be light in the morning and pick up later in the afternoon. We set sail out across the Bay of Banderas where we spent the day tacking, jibing, and just plain having fun in some very consistent wind. At the end of the afternoon, we returned to the La Cruz anchorage and fixed Mangata on the hook.
Our trolling set-up on the starboard side of the boat.
We dropped the dinghy into the water and headed for the docks and John took me to one of his favorite little restaurants and we had an amazing meal of tacos and tamales. We did a final stop at the store and picked up some sweets for breakfast and then returned to the boat. Everything was set for our departure at 5:00 AM. We turned in and got a good night’s sleep.
The arsenal of plugs we tried during our trip.
The next morning we hauled anchor and were on our way. Our course took us across the Bay of Banderas 24 miles to Cabo Corrientes. As we motored we were greeted with a magical sunrise, whales, and a few Tortugas. There was little wind and the ocean swells were very comfortable.
John's new seat cushion in action.
Cabo Corrientes” means “cape of currents,” referring to the strong ocean currents found in its vicinity. As we made our first bearing mark and turned southeast we ran straight into the currents of Cabo Corrientes. For the next eight hours, we had 8’ following seas, very little wind with a course directly into a four-knot current. Our speed over water was 4.5 knots and our regular speed was 6.5 knots. The current was relentless but we had to motor on. As we rounded the Cabo, water temperatures dropped from 84 degrees to 72 degrees. Though we saw a lot of bait fish we knew the water temperatures were not favorable for the bigger predator fish. Our day was spent motoring up and down the following swells. There were very little winds so we used our jib to help us push through the swell. Our first anchorage was at a small beach called Ipala Bay. There was probably room for four boats total in the anchorage, we arrived to find it empty. Later, a second boat pulled in and stayed the night.
Our first anchorage at Ipala Bay.
We lowered the dinghy and motored into the beach. We had a delicious dinner at Resturant Candie's. This place was huge and had one of the newest, most modern kitchens I have seen down in Mexico. The beach must draw a big tourist crowd, but today there was a comfortable amount of folks enjoying the food.
Time to eat!!!
We stayed overnight and in the morning pulled anchor and made our way to Perula. We arrived at this lovely spot about 1:00 PM and joined about seven other sailboats. The afternoon was spent on shore enjoying a great lunch at Restaurante El Pirata and then gathering some needed supplies from the local bodegas.
Back on board Mangata, we fixed dinner and then John watched some basketball on his computer. I spent my time watching the Snow Moon rise into the night sky. It was a very relaxing evening.
Two nights in Perula and we then set a course to Tenecatita Bay. This is a very popular cruisier destination and when we arrived there were at least thirty-five boats of all descriptions anchored throughout this sheltered bay. If you are not familiar with this anchorage, La Manzanilla (a small town in the SW corner of the bay) can be spotted across the water to the east.
Wonderful fish dinner.
John and I spent two nights in this anchorage. During the day we motored into the beach and ate at La Vena Resturant where we met a couple of cruisers. Rick and Karen Ranney live on their sailboat Avalon. We shared stories and had a fine meal together. They were traveling southeast and were interested in exploring Barra and Melaque. We filled their notes with tips on restaurants and places to visit. Another comfortable afternoon spent laughing and chatting.
The next morning John and I pulled anchor and headed home. The ocean was flat and we made good time to the lagoon in Barra. I helped John get fuel and water and then we put Mangata on the hook. I called a water taxi and thanked John for a super fun trip.
Though the winds were not favorable for sailing I once again learned so much about being on the ocean. John is a super guy to be with and I really enjoyed our time together. Thanks again Captain Karpinko for all you taught me!
Who said shark?
The water taxi dropped me off and I immediately caught a regular taxi back into our place in Villa Obregon. I sure missed Linda during my trip and it was super fun to surprised her when I returned.
Looking for our second anchorage at Perula.
Mangata on the right.
Watching some NCAA Basketball!
Snow moon.
Setting sun as we approach Estero de Tenacatita.
Dinner duties.
Evening weather watch.
View from Mangata on the hook at Estero de Tenacatita.
Anchorage is busy at Estero de Tenacatita.
Estero de Tenacatita.
Snow moon over the water at our Tenacatita anchorage.
Godzilla Monster Burger! Those three words could instill fear into the heart of anyone, except the last word. Burger has never been a word that I have run from. In fact, I usually am drawn into an area where a burger is highlighted in the advertising.
Our expedition crew finally enjoys the bounty of their quest.
The adventure part of this travel day had been developing for over three years. In the past, we have traveled to Manzanillo to grocery shop and to explore the sights of this huge shipping port. Each time we had been traveling with Leigh and Barry Vincent and Barry told us tales of a restaurant that served a burger so big that only a monster could eat the entire concoction. That's where we heard the story of Monster Burger and set our sights on obtaining one for consumption.
The basic bacon cheese Monster Burger.
On our first journey to Monster Burger, the place was gone! The location that our map, Barry's memory, took us was the original location of the burger bar, but the establishment had changed locations and we could not find it. Monster Burger eluded us!
The next time we were in Manzanillo we made sure that our intel was up to date and we found the location where the burgers were created, but alas, the establishment was closed.
Nachos! "I didn't think it would be that big!"
With two attempts and two failures under our belts, we set out to finally conquer the elusive Monster Burger. Jacquie, Grant, Linda and myself loaded into a Coordinados Bus in Melaque and rumbled southeast into the big city, where we gathered provisions at WalMart and Soriana.
At the bus stop near Soriana, we all waived vigorously for a taxi to carry is to the burger stop. Within seconds a taxi pulled up behind us, but we kept waving to the numerous taxis rushing by. Finally, Linda spotted the taxi behind us and we all loaded in after a brief negotiation and direction consultation.
A spectacular Cobb Salad!
Within minutes we were stopped in front of Monster Burger. The elusive destination was open and our three-year quest had become a reality.
Our lunch was very good. The drinks were cold and refreshing. The ladies said that their margaritas ranked in the top few of all that they have tasted. The food was very good. Linda had Nachos, Jacquie had a Cobb Salad, and Grant and I ate burgers. The burgers were flavorful and filling, again a top qualifier in our quest for the best.
Satisfied that we had finally conquered the Monster, we hired a taxi and rode back to our casa in Melaque. Our driver was very nice and enjoyed trying to speak English as we used our broken Spanish to exchange tidbits about each other.
There is a bit of an explanation for this mistake. This Mex ECO tour was first scheduled to be started one day later, but they changed the travel dates and pushed the tour back a day. Rumors spread about why the change, but nothing could be substantiated. Because of this change we were visiting the museum one day earlier in the week - Monday. The venue was closed that day, but Mex ECO was not aware of this weekly closure. So they went to plan B.
Once we looked around that building we walked to the entrance to the pyramid tunnels and entered the base of Choula. The pyramid stands180 feet above the surrounding landscape and measures 1,480 by 1,480 feet square. We walked through these tunnels for about a half mile to enter the archeological site. There were many off-shoot tunnels which were blocked from travel and used by the archeologists. It was a very neat walk if a bit claustrophobic. 
We walked a lot while we were not bus touring. Our free time was spent sightseeing, shopping, and hunting for food. One of our tour events was a visit to the Fabrica De Talavera Armando and the Museum Armando Talavera Poblana where we were educated about the art of creating the Talavera pottery. They provided us a demonstration of the entire Talavera creation process, showed us through the museum, and then finally let us purchase some beautiful pieces.
At lunch, on our second day, an auspicious happening transpired. As we sat down for lunch, a truck backed into sight on the street and opened its back doors. A full array of speakers was housed in this hold and they began to broadcast music. 
